Time Management for Groomers
Author's Note: The following is a handout that I developed when I was actively speaking at trade shows. Damn! I made some good handouts! Excuse the self-adulation, but I had not looked at this one for several years and I think it is worthy of publication.
Why bother with time management
By some estimates, people waste about two hours per day. OMG, that could be another two dogs per day, times $40-50, is $80-$100 per day. Hmmm.
That feeling you get when you are not nearly finished with a dog and the people are coming in five minutes and the dog is being a bozo and your scissors suddenly seem dull or maybe you accidentally slice your own finger because they are too sharp and you can’t find the bandaids…You know that feeling? That’s STRESS folks, the factor they say leads to illness, accidents, burn-out and worse. What is the best way to avoid stress? Improved time management works!
These are two fine reasons to work on improving your time management skills: creating more productive time ($$), and reducing stress. There are other benefits, such as being more effective, feeling in control (I like that one), and having more time outside of work.
What is time management, anyway?
Bad news: Time cannot be managed. Time management is really self-management. Time marches on. My former mentor used to say that “The work will fill the available time.” How true! If we had 16 dogs to groom, we’d be done by 4 pm, and if we had 9 dogs to groom we’d be done by 4 pm. What happened to that time? The boss would leave and go to the gym or shopping and the staff would go into slow motion, or relaxed mode. Time would seem to slip away… There was NO time management. We were either in a stress mode, or a resisting-stress mode; we were rarely in an EFFICIENT mode. I could sure use some of those wasted hours now! So: time management is managing oneself to be more efficient and not wasting time or allowing others to waste your precious time. That’s easy for me to say, I’m just writing about it.
More bad news: time management is clutter management.
I did NOT want to learn this. I am a Clutter Queen. I bought a book on “Clutter Control” and it got lost in the clutter before I read it. Every reference I have found on time management mentions getting rid of clutter as one of the first rules. Let’s look at looking: how much time do you spend looking for things? Do you have so many supplies on your shelf that you can’t find the one shampoo you want for this particular dog? Do your tools pile up and get kicked on the floor and by Saturday you can’t find the black curved slicker brush? Do you spend ten minutes looking for that catalogue where you spotted a tool organizer you want to order? Mea Culpa - I’m GUILTY!
Clutter management tip: tiers of organization
Rule one: Remove from your visual field any items you do not use once a week. Put them in a cupboard or a drawer. That would be an organized cupboard or drawer, please.
Rule two: Organize shelves so as to have a background and a foreground. In the background place tools or products that you may use once or twice a week, in the foreground place those items use daily or on each dog.
Rule three: Replace items after use. The time spent putting items back in their places will be less than the time wasted looking for misplaced items. You know the adage: A place for everything and everything in its place. Gag me, but it works.
Get Rockin' with a Routine:
Although many of us balk and buck at the idea of doing things the same way day in and day out (that would be me!), the most productive grooming operations are those with well-established, efficient, routines. This applies to all procedures, the entire day, as well as to specific grooming on the table. Not only should your grooming be routine so that you are completing the same steps in the same order with every dog, but the whole operation should have a clear routine. Don’t forget to include specific actions that are taken to deal with the leashes and collars that come in with dogs. Nothing can blow a half hour faster than getting ready to release the last dog and not have it’s gear anywhere to be found. Been there, done that!
Perfectionism: is this time thief robbing you?
Perfectionism is defined as “A disposition which regards anything short of perfect as unacceptable.” Can striving for excellence cross the line of professionalism and become an obsession that robs us of productivity and creates stress? YES! Can perfectionism become a form of procrastination? Yes, it can be as though you are saying to yourself, “Wait! I’m not done.. Don’t judge me yet, I’m not done… wait, I can do better”..) Of course, most dogs could be done better if you had another half hour or so for finishing. But we don’t often have that extra half hour in most grooming situations. Perfectionism is an indulgence that I can’t afford.
Tips for the perfectionist groomer
Schedule your perfectionism. Choose one dog per day to be your “show dog”. Give yourself an extra half hour on that dog and keep to a tighter time frame on your others. Know which dogs can be “good enough” grooms. Give your perfectionism to your customers as a gift. Save it for the clients who can tell the difference between “good enough” and “nearly perfect”. Notice that I said nearly. Recognize your perfectionism as a form of self-indulgence. Nearly perfect IS good enough! Set time limits on different tasks. When the time is up, you’re done!
Time lost with clients: the proprietor’s lament
How many times have you finished talking to a client only to look at the clock and realize that you have lost 20 minutes of the time you need to scissor the standard poodle? Sometimes it’s the client who has some need to go on and on, and other times I’m just “sharing myself” or having fun, or engaging in some Very Important conversation about pet care. Regardless, schmoozing with clients can be very unstructured and can drain your time.
Tips for managing time with clients
Have a clock on the wall behind where the clients stand so you can keep track of time you are spending with them. Have another at the phone, and of course one at your grooming table. Have clocks all over the place. Keeping track of your time is an investment in your productivity. The cost of keeping track of time is much less than the stress of losing time. You may quote me.
Practice reducing the total time spent with clients. Make yourself be more efficient and effective in client interactions. Take charge of getting the important information clarified. Cut off the chatter when necessary in a polite and professional manner. For example, you might say, “Sorry, the clock is calling me, I’ve got to get back to my grooming”. Or, “Wish I had more time to chat. Is there anything else I need to know?” (In other words, “Get to the point, please”)
The master time tool: the time journal
Keeping a time journal is hard to do, but it is very revealing of how we are really spending our time. The recommended period is three days to a week. Keep track of everything and update your log at least every 15 minutes. Keep your log with you at all times and every time you change tasks, make a note of what time and what task. Ideally, you will have every minute of the day accounted for in your journal. Even if you are not the perfect journal keeper, you will see where the gaps are and where you are spending more time than you thought. Assume you know nothing about your time habits. You can choose to call all grooming tasks simply “grooming”, or you can break it down further into bathing, drying, combout and scissoring, etc. It’s great to do a detailed breakdown of the grooming on at least a few dogs.
The daily time plan - the best defense against your time thieves
Having a plan of action every day is the best way of preventing major time loss. Look ahead at your schedule and identify potential problems and time thieves. Make a Damage Control Plan - know that Mrs. So & So tends to talk your ear off and see it coming. Plan to tell her you can’t chat today. Does a certain dog often require extra time on your table? Plan around it. Locate activities that can be dovetailed together to save you time.
Many veteran groomers and experienced managers look at each grooming day in terms of clustering. When working alone, I often plan my day in groups of three dogs. I will think through what I will be doing on those three and set time limits, and coordinate and dovetail activities as much as possible. I have dogs that I can dry in cages with fans while I’m fluff finishing and trimming others, for example. This clustering allows me to divide my day into thirds or fourths, and manage each part of the day. When I’m in trouble, I know it early on and can recover.
Scheduling as an art form
Scheduling screw ups are probably the groomer’s worst time enemy. We all have experienced days that went terribly wrong because the wrong combination of customers and dogs were scheduled together. Bad days can be from scheduling too many clients, but more often are from scheduling too many “extra time needed” clients, or stressful grooms. Effective scheduling requires a basic understanding of how groomer time is spent as well as a familiarity with the individual clients and dogs. The worst case scenario is a grooming operation where a person without this understanding and knowledge is booking appointments by filling time slots. It would be like scheduling a mobile groomer without knowledge of the geography. Combining grooms that you can do in less than average time with those that require more time is basic time management, as is not doubling up on extra difficult grooms.
Working with a bather or another groomer adds another whole dimension to the scheduling and time management challenge, and requires coordination of activities, so that no one is idle. Having several dogs arrive at once and get bathed and prepped for the groomer works at many shops,
The cost of socializing at work
You may be the exception, BUT…most people cannot talk and work with the same efficiency as working without talking. Chatting while working often takes you “off-task” or leads you to be less systematic, to lose your place, or to make mistakes. Learn to ask co-workers or employers/employees to not talk to you while you are working and encourage your work place to have scheduled times for socializing or meetings for problem-solving. Have lunch together. Lunch…the meal we groomers most often skip. Chances are good that if you didn’t allow distractions to steal your time, you would have more time for lunch.
Time is money - spend it wisely!
There are no refunds of time spent foolishly. We start out each day with a pocketful of time; how we spend it is often our choice. Good time management is a matter of budgeting, anticipating time “costs”, damage control, and self-discipline. Get a sense of how you are spending your daily allotment of time, and learn to stop those time thieves. Practice ways to say “no”. Control interruptions and distractions as much as possible and watch for how you may be stealing someone else’s time. Once you learn how to budget your time, you will have more time to give as gifts to your clients and co-workers (and family and friends) instead of feeling like you have holes in your pocket and no control over your time. Failure to manage our time is one of the greatest sources of stress for groomers. Time management is stress management.
Copyright Birdzeye Press 2007. By Barbara Bird. Really Bad Things will happen if you reprint any part of this material without expressed permission of the author. Contact BBird at bbirdgroomer@gmail.com or 3158 E. Grant Rd. Tucson, AZ 85716.
TRIED AND TRUE TIME-SAVING TIPS FROM VETERAN GROOMERS
· Bathe first, then do all the clipper work and scissoring.
· Wet Clipping – This technique works great to speed up shave downs. (www.groomingsmarter.com)
· Invest in a bathing system. I love the Hanvey Bathing Beauty recirculating system. I love it so much that I SELL it. Contact me at bbirdgroomer@gmail.com for best price.
· Use a good high velocity dryer with sufficient power. If you are drying big dogs, you need a big dryer.
· Use towels to keep from adding humidity to the air that slows down drying. (See “The Science of Drying”, www.GroomBlog.blogspot.com)
· Vacuum clipper systems with snap-on combs greatly reduce clipping/scissor times.
· Practice “roughing in” or “blocking” techniques to set the length and shape of a trim, then perfect the scissor finish. I use snap-on combs to rough out most of my grooms.
· Purchase a good table restraint system to reduce dancing and struggling on the table.
· Establish an equipment maintenance routine to prevent breakdowns.
· Know your products! Some conditioners, especially thick waxy remoisturizers, can add considerable time to the drying process. Silicone ingredients facilitate faster drying. There are several products on the market that have been formulated to speed up drying by forced air (high velocity). They work. Choose according to the greater need. Not every coat needs heavy moisturizing every time. Sometimes saving time is more important.
· Develop your grooming speed by timing yourself. Keep a journal of your “Personal Best Times” for different tasks and try to improve by having an occasional “time trial” race with the clock.
NO MORE EAR HAIR PLUCKING! By Barbara Bird, CMG
Pet parents may be relieved to know that they are no longer under the mandate
to pluck out the hair from inside their dogs’ ears. Nor should groomers do this. The
current advice from veterinary dermatologists is that plucking ear hair can do more
harm than good. Rather than prevent ear infections, this procedure can actually
create a greater likelihood of infection by damaging the tender inner ear tissue and
allowing a foothold for bacteria to thrive. This is contrary to what many groomers
have been taught, and may come as a surprise. It is consistent with contemporary
clinical evidence from the ranks of veterinary dermatologists, the specialists in pet
ear care and treatment.
In her presentation to Tucson, Arizona groomers, “Ears: What Every Groomer
Needs to Know”, Dr. Heide Newton, DVM, DACVD plainly stated that groomers
should stop plucking ear hair from inside dog’s ears. “Healthy ears are self-cleaning”,
stated Dr. Newton. She encouraged groomers to continue the practice of ear
cleaning, however, using products formulated for ear care, and massaging the base
of the ear to allow the product to loosen wax and debris from deep in the ear canal.
Clipping and/or careful scissoring of excess hair around the ear opening is also
helpful for maintaining ear health. Q-Tips should be used only on the crevices of the
outer ear, not down into the ear canal. The concern is not that the eardrum might be
damaged as with human ears, but that waxy material may be inadvertently packed
further into the ear canal.
Another clear statement from Dr. Newton was that “Bathing with clean water
will NOT cause ear infections.” Contaminated water may introduce microbes that
lead to ear infections, but clean water is not a problem.
The possibility of cross-contamination from an infected ear to the other ear or
another animal is the one area where groomers might be at fault. It is very possible
for pseudomonas bacteria, the most common infection agent, to transfer from an
infected ear to various surfaces and then be picked up by other animals or even
humans. The most obvious sign of a pseudomonas infection is what vets call a
“purulent exudate”. Translation: yucky discharge. If the groomer suspects an ear
infection, Dr. Newton suggested the following protocol:
1. Clean the GOOD ear first.
2. If the ear with the suspected infection is cleaned, be gentle and use a non-
stinging ear cleaner. The groomer may also choose to not clean an ear with a
suspected infection, especially if it looks serious.
3. Disinfect everything that has had contact with the suspicious ear or might be
sprayed with shaking of the ears. This includes, your hands, the tub, the
faucets, any tools, the table, the kennel and bedding, and the tip or spout of
the ear cleaner bottle.
In addition to ear discharge, other signs of ear abnormality are redness,
itchiness, odor, swollen tissue of outer ear, hair loss on earflap, and scabs or
scaliness. Ear problems are often quite complex and difficult to nail down and treat.
A referral to the veterinary dermatologist can result in a quicker and more accurate
diagnosis and more effective treatment, thus lessening the time the pet has to suffer
with uncomfortable, often painful conditions. By encouraging pet parents to seek
treatment for suspected ear problems, the professional groomer is serving the
needs of the pet.
Speaking to about forty Tucson pet groomers, Dr. Newton is a member of
Dermatology For Animals, a group of practicing veterinary dermatologists based in
Gilbert, Arizona with practices in several states across the U.S. Veterinary
dermatologists such as Dr. Newton, undergo several years additional training and
examinations beyond that required of general practitioners. In addition to working
full-time in the Tucson practice, she currently serves on the American College of
Veterinary Dermatology (ACVD) Exam Committee (the certifying board) and is a
lecturer for the North American Veterinary Dermatology Forum (NAVDF) Resident
Education Forum.
Additional References:
Pseudomonas Article - http://www.allergyearskincare.com/animal-
care/component/content/article/81.html
COMMENTS FROM GROOMWISE BBIRD TALK BLOG
July, 2013 – September, 2016
Great information - thanks for posting this.
Posted by: Julie | July 17, 2013 at 10:44 AM
We just had this same lecture a few months back and then a more recent one about a
week ago. LOVE LOVE LOVE these seminars these Vet Specialists are putting on! We
also had the Eye Care for Animals vet speak at the same seminar. Love learning from
them!
Posted by: Tammy ellis | July 17, 2013 at 08:32 PM
I agree 100%, on no pulling hair! It makes a huge difference when you leave well
enough ALONE!
Posted by: Amy | July 19, 2013 at 05:44 PM
While I do agree that your average dog doesn’t need the ear hair plucked, I have
reservations on SOME dogs. For example, I have a standard poodle who grows so much
ear hair that if left alone, it completely occludes the ear canal! I can "snip" out some
with a scissors... but that just takes care of the surface hair. I can tell when she needs
her ears plucked, as she CAN’T HEAR when they are getting full. EVEN if I have
snipped some away. I have to pluck out most of it before she can hear normally again.
I don’t obsess over getting every last hair, but I feel I need to continue plucking her
ears. I also think it makes a difference as to if the hair comes out easily... she seems
to LOVE it when I pluck her ears! She stands sooo good for it. :)
My other poodles get minimal hair, so I don’t bother with theirs. Just use the corner of
the trimmer or scissors to clip away the extra.
Posted by: Darcy | September 01, 2013 at 11:35 AM
There are exceptions to every rule. The veterinary specialist was trying to tell us that
we need to back off the ear plucking. She was saying that plucking the hairs (can)
predispose ear infections. It is up to us to weigh this information with specific cases.
Posted by: BBird | September 02, 2013 at 06:55 PM
Love the article just wish I could get the vets in my area to read it. I determine
plucking on a dog to dog basis. Most don’t require it but a few have packed ears and
must have some removed. However it never fails if a dog develops an infection the
owners return from the vets with instruction for me to pluck the ear hair. I’ve been
able to educate many of my clients with this article but many insist because I get
every hair because that’s what their vet said.
Posted by: Susan kinser | October 21, 2013 at 02:45 AM
I have been grooming for 40+ years. I have had vets refer dogs to me to have the ears
done because I did a really good job on getting the ears cleaned and plucked out
completely.
Then this information comes out and I have dogs coming in with plugged ears and
when I take a few hairs out,there are globs of residue coming out on the hair from
deep in the ear. I know the owners will not be taking the dog to the vet any time
soon. So.....I pluck and clean. That is my job, as a professional groomer, to make sure
the animal in my care, leaves my shop done as well as I am able to, and that includes
having the ears cleaned and the hair removed so the air can get into the canal to dry
it out.
If that is wrong then, so be it!
I pluck a few hairs from every dogs ear to see what is down deep. I use separate
hemostats for each ear. I clean them between dogs, with alcohol and soap and water
and a toothbrush. I will recommend a vet visit if I feel it is necessary but, if I know the
owners do not have the cash for this, I do my best.
Posted by: Barb z | June 17, 2015 at 05:22 AM
Thank you for posting, Barb. You state your position very well. I salute you for 40+
years of doing right by the dogs in your care. There are both groomers and vets for
which this dermatological information flies in the face of what they have been doing
and recommending for years. The suggestion of changing protocols can be very
challenging, especially when we believe we have been doing things the right way. I
remember the first time a new bather suggested to me that we might bathe dogs
before clipping and combing. I nearly fired him on the spot. I had learned from the
best and I had learned to ALWAYS clip and completely brush out before bathing. How
dare he suggest otherwise? I was so entrenched in my old ways that I would not even
give it a try. Two years later I discovered on my own that pre-bathing was way easier
in most cases. I wished I could find that bather and apologize.
I don’t wish to argue the matter. I am reporting what the veterinary ear specialist
said. She did not say that ear plucking is never warranted. She said that the ear is a
self-cleaning mechanism and that the hair that grows in the ear is not the cause of
ear problems. Poor hygiene is the cause of many ear problems. Her recommendation
was that groomers do more ear cleaning and less ear plucking. She recommended
cleaning protocol that utilizes ear cleaner that can be poured into the ear canal and
massaged at the base of the ear, then allow the dog to shake it out. The outer ear can
be swabbed with cleaner on cotton, but no pushing into the ear canal.
Another thing that Dr. Newton touched on that perked up some groomer ears was NOT
to use cotton balls in the dogs ears while bathing. The potential of pushing wax and
debris down into the ear canal with the cotton is worse than any risk from a little
fresh water in the ear, according to Dr. Newton. Jeez, that’s another thing I was
taught to do back in 1971! I gave up that practice when I opened my own shop and
forgot to take the cotton balls out a couple of times. After some comments from
clients about the dog having cotton in the ears and a Standard Poodle returning with
the cotton balls from the grooming 6 weeks earlier still in the ears, I abandoned the
practice unless specifically requested by the client. If that had not happened I would
probably still be stuffing cotton balls in the ears for every bath. Old habits become
the right way.
These practices were the right way at the time we were taught with the knowledge
that was then available. The advanced study of veterinary dermatology as a specialty
has resulted in gains in knowledge about the canine ear. Based on this advanced
knowledge, the veterinary ear specialists are suggesting a modification in ear care
protocol that is less invasive. There may be specific instances where plucking out
some ear hair may be recommended in order to return an ear to optimum health.
Current knowledge, according to Dr. Newton, clearly suggests that preventative
plucking is doing more harm than good. I’m just saying...don’t shoot the messenger. I
know it’s hard for some to hear. (ear joke?)
Posted by: Barbara Bird | June 17, 2015 at 07:24 AM
I am not sure I agree with this! MY Standard Poodle got several ear infections and Vet
said it was because nobody had plucked the hair from his ears. He eventually became
deaf. When the dog has especially thick hair inside his ears I think it NEEDS to be
plucked!
Posted by: Heidi Christensen | June 20, 2015 at 12:18 PM
I do not agree with this article, at least as it pertains to standard poodles. I
agree with Heidi. I also own a standard and I know for a fact it is best to pluck her
ears. Copious amounts of hair is bothersome to my poodle and I can understand why.
It’s uncomfortable to have hair in the ear canals, not to mention it doesn’t allow for
the ear to breathe. I will continue to pluck the hair from the ear canals of my spoo. I
do think it’s very important to be gentle when plucking the hair. excessive plucking
can cause bruising and irritation, causing infection.
Posted by: Kevin Walker | June 20, 2015 at 04:45 PM
Just glanced over the article but that seemingly contradicts everything our
veterinarians know...clean water can of course cause infections and we pluck ears in
the clinic all the time to get more air in the canal, not tra wax and debris, and make
cleaning much better... whoever wrote this is clearly not a medical professional and
shouldn’t be giving advice like they are one.
Posted by: Jenn | June 20, 2015 at 08:30 PM
I tried not plucking and got great wads of dirty hair blocking the ears, so all my
poodles have plucked ears. I wash the ears inside during baths with shampoo and
make sure they shake out all of the moisture, which can be done because there is no
hair to cling too.
Posted by: jeannette Hagen Fauntleroy poodles | June 21, 2015 at 02:21 AM
If you were to actually read the article, it is clear that is it is a report following a
presentation by Dermatology 4 Animals, Dr. Heide Newton, DVM, DACVD. The
suggestion for less ear plucking did not originate with the author, a grooming
professional of 44+ years. The author is simply reporting. Ears, What Every Groomer
Needs to Know was one of a series of interdisciplinary presentations by the Tucson
veterinary specialists to the professional groomers in the community.
Posted by: BBird | June 21, 2015 at 07:01 AM
I find myself having to elaborate and defend Dr. Newton without the benefit of her
counsel. To Kevin: Yes, rigorous yanking out of ear hair is going to cause more damage
to the tissue of the inner ear than cautious plucking of a few hairs at a time.
However, EVERY hair that is removed leaves an open follicle and an opportunity for
the very opportunistic Pseudonomas to invade the tissue.
To the questions raised by groomers at this seminar, and the issue of Standard Poodle
ears was the greatest expressed concern, Dr. Newton said that Less is best in regards
to plucking; IOW, pluck just as few hairs as possible. Also, deep cleaning of the ear
canal PRIOR to any plucking with an antiseptic ear solution was recommended.
Posted by: BBird | June 21, 2015 at 07:49 AM
Recently, I received the following email and obtained permission to post here:
Hi Barbara. I read your article about "no more plucking". It was posted on one of my
Standard Poodle FB group sites. I have been std poodle owner since 2002 and have
struggled with this issue. We now have a puppy, he is 4 mos old. We took home for his
first professional groom a few weeks ago. We researched and found groomer we
trusted. But
we did have conversation about not getting water in his ears as our last poodle would
get ear infection almost immediately if he got water in his ears. Well we picked up
our Paco and she had plucked his ears
and and next day he had ear infection. Took him to vet and he said no harm done and
we were given drops which cleared it up. We didn’t have our older poodles ears
plucked often. So I’m thinking I’m with
you on the plucking. We did use Blue Power Treatment on previous poodle ears and
swear by it, but have been reluctant to use on our
little one yet. Do you think he’s too young?
Posted by: BBird | June 22, 2015 at 09:43 AM
Thanks for posting. My previous standard was on steroids and antibiotics numerous
times. Finally I stopped the plucking and the head shaking, tearing at his ears went
away. For him it was a great decision. Never had a problem again.
Posted by: Cindy Salzillo | August 04, 2015 at 02:27 PM
I have a Bichon. Twice I took him to the vet to have his ears plucked, when I heard
him yelp I asked how they did it, they used the surgical stats, twisted the hair and
pulled. He had an infection after that. I had to use the medicine in his ears that
makes the hair outside all greasy. I used a qtip once a week and Burts Bees ear
cleaner and go around his ear. And use a rag with some and use my finger. When done
I pull what I can get with my nails and scissor it and just keep them clean. When I
bathe him I squirt itnin the ear and massage it. His ears are great!
Posted by: Beverly Hall | September 28, 2016 at 02:30 PM
UNDERSTANDING CUSTOMERS - Why Do People Lie?
A favorite topic among pet groomers is that of client lies. To hear us talk, clients are a bunch of liars, telling untruths about how long it's been since Fluffy was last groomed, how often they brush, when mats appeared, the cost of their previous grooming, excuses for missed appointments, and any number of things. Are customers liars?
The truth is clients are humans and humans lie. Not just some, but most people lie. In a study at the University of Virginia, Dr. Bella DePaulo found that most subjects lied once or twice a day. Why do people lie? People lie to avoid punishment, confrontation, shame, or loss of self-esteem. They lie for financial gain or to make themselves look better. People are more likely to lie in real time than when they have time to think through a response. A very common reason for lying is to spare someone's feelings. People are most likely to lie when put on the spot, "Do you like this dress?"
There are some who are more avid liars than others. Some people lie at the drop of a hat, others lie only in extreme circumstances. When lying becomes a survival mechanism that works in one situation, it often spreads to other situations as well. A person who lies at home will lie at work.
People who have less power in a given relationship are more likely to lie than persons with power: children to parents, wives to husbands, and employees to employers. Persons with power, however, will lie to avoid losing that power. People will also lie if they feel they have been lied to. Any way you look at it, lying begets more lying. One lie leads to another. It can become a vicious cycle between persons, or it can become a lifestyle. Lying destroys trust and ruins relationships. It also destroys the ability to trust others. A person who chronically lies is less likely to believe that someone else is telling the truth. A person who is chronically lied to is less likely to trust the next person.
What does this information have to do with us as pet groomers, i.e., service providers?
• We can expect some lying. Our customers often want to save face,
avoid consequences, look like good pet owners, avoid our
judgment, and sometimes spare our feelings.
• The more we take things personally, the more we will be lied to - to
spare our feelings. The more judgmental we are, the more we will
be lied to - to avoid loss of self esteem.
• If we practice not judging our customers, responding with
compassion and understanding, and not taking their actions
personally or being too tender, we will be lied to less. If we create
an atmosphere where our clients feel good about themselves as pet
owners, we establish a margin of self-esteem that can withstand
some human failure, and we will hear more truthfulness.
• If we are forgiving, and apply consequences such as extra charges
fairly and without a lot of drama, we will be lied to less.
• If we reward people for telling the truth, by praising their honesty,
and expressing appreciation of the truth, we will have less lying.
• By our own willingness to tell the truth in difficult circumstances,
such as messing up an appointment in the book, or failing to
communicate clearly about something, we will encourage others to
do the same.
As professionals, we must model the desired behavior. If we admit to being less than perfect, the people around us can also be human. We cannot eliminate all lies, but we can reduce them by practicing the art of compassion. We can’t change other people, but sometimes when we change how we react to people, we can change how they are with us. When we hear that ancient excuse about "overnight matting" in spite of "daily brushing", instead of rolling our eyes and saying "That's
impossible!", we can say something like: "Doesn't it just seem like they are fine one day and a mess the next?" "Thanks for bringing him in, now let's see what we can do and how much it's going to cost." Once we remove the guilt and shame, they are more likely to listen to our explanation of how hair mats from the inside out and how owners often brush from the outside in.
By being good-natured and forgiving, while managing consequences clearly and fairly, the groomer can establish a business that is a "zone of compassion". People will want to return to a relationship where they feel good about themselves and where it easier to tell the truth.
REFERENCES:
Kornet, Allison, “The Truth About Lying”, Psychology Today, May/June
1997.
Komp, Diane, “Anatomy of a Lie”, Zondervan Pub. House, 1998
Copyright: BBird, Birdzeye Press, 2006. For permission to use in whole or
part, contact the author at petpals@dakotacom.net or (520)795-5743.
In addition to owning TRANSFORMATION PET CENTER in Tucson, Arizona, BARBARA BIRD is author of the book Beyond Suds & Scent - Understanding Pet Shampoos & Conditioners. She is also half of The Groom Pod, a weekly podcast for groomers. The Groom Pod can be found on iTunes, Stitcher, Facebook or www.thegroompod.com.
Posted 6th August 2015 by bbird
About Bleach By Barbara Bird
ABOUT BLEACH
By Barbara Bird April 2025
Common household bleach is familiar to most everybody and trusted as a disinfectant.
It is effective against bacteria, yeast and mold and used in many pet care establishments as a safe option for disinfecting floors and surfaces. However, there are some things to know about bleach that might give you second thoughts about using it. Or at least teaching your salon staff some protocols for bleach use.
▪ Chemical Facts: Bleach is chlorine-based such as calcium hypochlorite (bleaching powder) and non chlorine (peroxidase-based).The active ingredient of chlorine bleach is chlorine hypochlorite.
▪ How is Bleach made? Sodium hypochlorite solutions are produced by percolating chlorine gas in controlled amounts through a solution of sodium hydroxide in water. When the reaction is completed, there is a 1% to 2% excess of sodium hydroxide present in the solution. The chlorine gas reacts with sodium hydroxide to yield sodium hypochlorite.
▪ Chlorine bleach is considered a Hazardous Substance. It has serious health effects.
▪ From SDS:
Hazards Identification
This chemical is considered hazardous by the 2012 OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200). Danger. Causes severe skin burns and eye damage Causes serious eye damage.
Potential Health Effects
Eye Contact: Corrosive. May cause severe damage to eyes.
Skin Contact: May cause severe irritation to skin. Prolonged contact may cause burns to skin. Inhalation: Exposure to vapor or mist may irritate respiratory tract and cause coughing. Inhalation of high concentrations may cause pulmonary edema. Ingestion: Ingestion may cause burns to
gastrointestinal tract and respiratory tract, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea.
▪ Long-term (chronic) effects: Long-term exposure to low levels of chlorine gas could cause permanent lung disease such as bronchitis and shortness of breath. It can also cause tooth corrosion. Long-term exposure is mostly found in the workplace. No cancer or reproductive effects have been reported from chronic exposure to chlorine.
▪ EWWW The Smell: Some people are highly sensitive to the strong odor of bleach and report nausea, tingling or burning of mouth and headaches.
▪ Bleach is more effective at killing germs when diluted than when used straight out of the bottle.
▪ Bleach Dilution : Nearly every reference offered a different recommendation. They included: 1 Cup Bleach:1 gallon water; 9 parts water:1 part bleach; 1/3 cup bleach per gallon water, and 1/2 cup bleach in 1 gallon water. Take your pick. Given what we have learned about the loss of potency, I would suggest you use more bleach as your bleach ages in the bottle.
▪ Is your bleach fresh? Bleach is unstable. It begins to degrade soon after it is produced. This makes it less potent. The higher the temperature in storage, the faster it will degrade. Yes, bleach can be losing
potency while in the bottle at the supermarket or stored in your garage or under the sink. The decomposition rate is exponential, not linear, so a significant amount of the decomposition occurs in the first week after production. Sodium Hypochlorite solutions containing less than 7.5% available chlorine are the most stable.
▪ The factors that promote bleach decomposition are heat, light, soil, and metal ions (hard water).
▪ Bleach by itself does not remove dirt or soil (or urine & feces). An area that will be cleaned with bleach should be washed and rinsed first to remove any dirt or nasty stuff before using the bleach solution.
▪ Household Bleach: Bleach designed for use in the home is sold in retail and grocery stores. It is typically labeled somewhere in the range of 4-8% Sodium Hypochlorite, and is the only type of bleach appropriate for the average consumer to use at home. Due to the longer time (weeks? months?) from production to use by the customer, it is highly possible that bleach purchased in grocery stores is not necessarily as strong as is claimed on the label (see next section on bleach degradation). This is why we don’t buy bleach at the Dollar Store.
▪ Bleach is highly corrosive. "Bleach can drill a hole through stainless steel," says one expert, "that's why it's important to wipe down metal surfaces with water or ethanol after treating them with bleach." For
delicate metal instruments, consider avoiding bleach altogether and using a different kind of disinfectant, such as ethanol (alcohol).
▪ Medicated Shampoo with Bleach - Sodium Hypochlorite has been demonstrated as effective in treating antibiotic resistant skin infections in dogs. Vets have been known to prescribe weekly bleach rinses for dogs that have not been responsive to other treatments. It works. Now a medicated shampoo with sodium chlorite as an ingredient is available
▪ Medicated Shampoo with Bleach - Sodium Hypochlorite has been demonstrated as effective in treating antibiotic resistant skin infections in dogs. Vets have been known to prescribe weekly bleach rinses for dogs that have not been responsive to other treatments. It works. Now a medicated shampoo with sodium chlorite as an ingredient is available Vetrimax. It uses a combination of sodium
hypochlorite and salicylic acid. We are sorry to see this available by internet search at Chewy.com, as requiring veterinary supervision would seem appropriate.
P.S. FABULOSO CLEANING PRODUCTS CONTAIN NO BLEACH. Just
Saying….The alarming story about a person dying from using Fabuloso was totally false. You can’t get much more false than “totally”.
REFERENCES:
Core Chem: Cleaning with Bleach: Here’s What You Need to Know, info@corechem.com
Michigan Department of Community Health, Bleach Fact Sheet, michigan.gov
Mika Ono, Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Bleach But Were Afraid to Ask, Scripps Research Institute News & Views, Vol 6, Issue 5, February 13, 2006
Household Products Database. Now known as: consumer product information database
Valerie A. Fadok, Katherine Irwin, Sodium Hypochlorite/salicylic Acid Shampoo for Treatment of Canine Staphylococcal Pyoderma, J Am Anim Hosp Assoc. 2019 May/Jun, 55(3): 117-123. d
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30870602/
DMDM HYDANTOIN - FACTS & FEARS
Facts about DMDM Hydantoin
USAGE: BROAD SPECTRUM PRESERVATIVE (Alternative to Parabens)
PRESERVATIVE TYPE: FORMALDEHYDE DONOR (along with quaternium-15, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bromopol)
· DMDM Hydantoin is used in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 1%. 1 Most commonly it is used at concentrations of 0.2-0.6%. That’s 2/10ths to 6/10ths of one percent.
· DMDM Hydantoin releases less formaldehyde than found in foods.2
· Formaldehyde that is released in water-based solutions, such as shampoos, will immediately mix with water in the product and instantly convert into methylene glycol, so there’s virtually no chance of inhaling harmful levels of formaldehyde gas.2
· The safety of DMDM Hydantoin has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that DMDM Hydantoin was safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use. In 2005, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on DMDM Hydantoin and reaffirmed the above conclusion. It is approved universally in Japan, USA and Europe.1
· DMDM Hydantoin has low oral toxicity and is not carcinogenic.
· It has shown occasional dermal irritation but does not appear to be a sensitizer (does not cause allergic response) in animal testing1. In human dermatological studies it has shown up as a sensitizer, especially in those individuals with known allergy to formaldehyde. 3
BBIRD TRANSLATION:
The concerns over the safety of DMDM Hydantoin and other preservatives that are formaldehyde releasers seems mostly based on the fear of formaldehyde. It’s scary stuff! Full strength Formaldehyde gas is extremely toxic and is a known carcinogen. Our fears of formaldehyde gas have been exploited by profit-minded fear mongers and made to appear relevant to cosmetics.
Formaldehyde occurs naturally in many foods, especially fruits & vegetables.The amount of formaldehyde released in cosmetics preservatives is less than that found naturally occurring in foods. Moreover, some scientists claim that any formaldehyde that is released in a solution containing water is immediately converted to another substance, methylene glycol. They maintain that actually NO FORMALDEHYDE can exist in shampoos and conditioners. Concern over DMDM Hydantoin would be most appropriate in regards to creams (oil-based), not hair products (water-based, rinsed off).
DMDM Hydantoin has a very low oral toxicity, making it quite safe for cats. It does not cause cancer. It has been determined to be a sensitizer for some humans (causes allergic reaction), but this was not established in animal studies. In studies of albino rabbits, it showed minimal transient irritation. 5
CONCLUSION: DMDM Hydantoin has been thoroughly studied, reviewed and re-reviewed by the CIR Expert Panel, and determined to be safe as used in cosmetics. It is considered an acceptable alternative to parabens, with a slightly greater potential for skin irritation or allergic reaction. This would not likely exhibit in a diluted, rinse-off, water-based shampoo for pets.
2021 UPDATE: A newer and excellent reference for the safety of this preservative is found at
Reviewed and re-posted by BBird, April 18,2025
Reviewed and Re-Posted by BBird, 4/18/2025. Yes, I approve this message.
Close-Open-Close: Is it a good thing?
Background:
Many practices and products arrive at the pet grooming industry by way of the human beauty industry. The whole idea of conditioners came to us from hairdressing art. Prior to the late 1970’s most pet groomers, even the top echelon of grooming icons had never considered using conditioners on pet hair. Likewise, some grooming practices originated in the beauty industry. There are several types of pre-shampoo treatments that have trickled down from the human hair care industry. Hot Oil Treatment was one, and many Asian groomers can be seen in videos using a pre-bath mineral soak.
Consider the practice called “Close-Open-Close.” Close-Open-Close originated in the human hair care industry as a practice that accompanied permanent hair coloring in order to achieve a more uniform and thorough color result as well as protecting the client’s hair from damage from the very alkaline and caustic hair dye products. Most often the products used before the hair dyeing were protein-rich conditioners. The name “Close-Open-Close” was chosen because it was easy for hairstylists to remember. Close-Open-Close relates to the cuticle layer of the hair shaft. Step One was to smooth or “close” the hair cuticle before dyeing and to fill in any uneven patches or damage on the cuticle surface. Step Two was to lift the cuticle edges so that the color could be deposited into the inner cortex of the hair shafts to become permanent. This was achieved by formulating the coloring products to be extremely alkaline in pH (ie, 9.0 pH) which actually pulls and lifts the cuticle scales. Step Three was to use an acidic conditioner to tighten the cuticle scales and again create a smooth surface.
Adapting this protocol to pet grooming it translates into “Condition-Shampoo-Condition”. This process was adapted by IV San Bernard and called “Close-Open-Close”. It has been adopted by many groomers who have found it helpful in their grooming.
Science says:
That’s the background. Here are some facts to consider:
• The hair cuticle does not actually OPEN. It lifts or becomes slightly raised or lifted.
• Opening or lifting of the hair cuticle is not a good thing. It is not designed to be forcibly lifted. It does not open and close like a door.
• The cuticle layers are held in place by lipids and proteins. Repeated lifting by chemical or mechanical means erodes the “mortar” that holds the structure together.*
• When we shampoo hair, the water breaks the hydrogen bonds and swells the hair shafts. This slightly raises the hair cuticle.
• Also contributing to lifting of the cuticle are the anionic surfactants in the shampoo. Hair naturally carries a negative charge. When the negatively charged anionic cleansers meet the negatively charged hair, it can pull on the surface causing lifting. This is all the more reason to use a well-balanced shampoo that has been mindfully formulated.
• Most current-day products are formulated to a slightly acidic pH, 5.5-6.5, pretty much the same range as human shampoos.
• High pH products, such as hard soaps, hair dye, and aggressive degreasers can also cause excessive lifting of the cuticle and erode the cuticle "mortar". These are the products that most benefit “Close-Open-Close.”
• A lifted hair cuticle does not necessarily allow beneficial ingredients to penetrate into the cortex or body of the hair shaft.
• Penetration of ingredients is determined more by the chemistry and molecular size of the ingredients. We do not just open the door and put good stuff inside the hair shaft.
• Also, the most recent hair science suggests that penetration of substances into the cortex of the hair does not happen through the cuticle, but through the mortar that holds the cuticle layers in place.
•
Discussion
Okay. So here's my take-away from my reading on this subject: It seems to me that the issue is the lifting of the hair cuticle that causes damage not the smoothing. Not all shampoos are potentially damaging. A shampoo is much more than a single surfactant, or single cleansing agent. In a well-formulated product, the secondary, co-surfactants (foam builders, emulsifiers, thickeners) team up with the primary detergent(s) to form a complex matrix that is the shampoo. One important effect of the co-surfactants is to reduce the irritancy of the primary cleanser, e.g., a sulfate. We still have a powerful cleanser, but it is more friendly to hair and skin. Another formulation practice that makes for less lifting of the hair cuticle is the use of cationic polymer conditioners in the shampoo. Polyquats, such as Polyquaternium 10 and Polyquaternium 44, play well with anionic surfactants and neutralize the negative charge of the detergent(s) and smooth the hair cuticle during the shampoo process. Polyquaternium 10 is ubiquitous in human hair shampoos (it's everywhere) and we are seeing more and more in pet shampoos. Truth is…shampooing can be a smoothing process not necessarily lifting or opening the hair cuticle. What isn’t opened does not need to be closed.
When to Condition Before Shampoo
While I don't believe that all professional pet groomers should condition before every bath, there are some situations where this protocol can be helpful.
Badly damaged coat that is not to be clipped. An example is the 10-year old Bearded Collie in full coat that we groom every 2 weeks that has accumulated considerable damage throughout the coat from constant de-matting. She is always very dirty because her owner doesn't care and lets her wander into any dirt or undergrowth that she wants to. Conditioning before the shampoo with a product with plenty of hydrolyzed protein such as Chris Christensen Thick n' Thicker Foaming Protein is a way to imitate COC.
Funky old dog skin. I have been amazed at how a protein treatment will bring the skin of old dogs to a healthier appearance. I am not talking about treating a skin disease, with broken skin.
Fine, non-porous coat. In this case you might want to simply condition before the bath and not after. Less porous hair and fine non-porous hair do not absorb conditioning ingredients in the same thirsty way as do porous and/or damaged hair.
Deshedding ultra thick double or triple coats. These challenging jobs can be made easier by relaxing the coat with application of a good anti-static conditioner before the shampoo, especially if you do not use a recirculating system.
Is "Closed-Open-Closed" a Good Thing?
Groomers have been doing pre-bath treatments for years. COC is another option in your toolbox. One can choose to treat the hair and skin with an oil, a mineral soak, a protein treatment or a cationic conditioner. Some groomers like to simply reverse the traditional order and condition before the bathe and that's it. Reverse conditioning has its place, especially with non-porous hair or when you do not want to soften the coat. Conditioning before the bathe as well as after gives us a means to protect skin and coat from the aggressiveness of the shampoo.
However, not all shampoos are damaging. Let me say that again, please: not all shampoos are damaging. Almost all our contemporary shampoos contain co-surfactants that function as foaming and thickening agents and significantly reduce the harshness of the primary detergents. Many modern shampoos also contain a cationic surfactant, such as Polyquaternium 10. And there are some shampoos, such as iGroom Charcoal+Keratin, that contain hydrolyzed protein along with a mild surfactant, and are much less likely to cause damage to hair than traditional shampoos.
What I don't like about Closed-Open-Closed is that the concept oversimplifies the biology of the hair cuticle. The cuticle scales that protect the hairshaft cannot be repeatedly open and closed like a cupboard door. What the pre-bath treatment often does is to prevent the lifting of the cuticle scales during the shampoo or cleansing process and protects the intercellular cement from degradation.The desirable process is one that minimizes the lifting of the hair cuticle.
REFERENCES:
C.R. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, 329 DOI 10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0_6, # Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2012
Chapter Six, Interactions of Shampoo and Conditioner Ingredients with Hair.
http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2013/03/junk-science-opening-hairs-cuticle-for.html (this link has been removed)
Posted 7th August 2019 by bbird Revised March 16, 2025
"Shampoos and hair conditioners have generally been perceived as products that do not damage hair. However, there is increasing evidence that these products, particularly shampoos can contribute to hair damage through abrasive, erosive actions combined with cyclic actions involving bending, compression and extension, both during and after the shampoo process. These actions produce degradation of both the keratin and the important non-keratin components of the hair surface, the cell membrane complex and the cuticle layers." Robbins. pg 330
Groomer Longevity By Barbara Bird
GROOMER LONGEVITY – By Barbara Bird
As Presented to ATLANTA PET FAIR 2016
UNDERSTANDING STRESS
Understanding our relationship to stress is important to groomer survival. It is helpful to be able to identify your own signs of stress. What signals do you get at work that let you know you are in a stress mode? Here are some symptoms of stress that have been identified by mental health professionals.
HOW STRESS SHOWS UP - SIGNS OF STRESS
Cognitive Signs: Memory problems, indecisiveness, Inability to concentrate, trouble thinking clearly, poor judgment, seeing only the negative, anxious or racing thoughts, constant worrying, loss of objectivity, fearful anticipation.
Emotional Symptoms: Moodiness, agitation, restlessness, short temper, irritability, impatience, inability to relax, feeling overwhelmed, sense of loneliness or isolation, depression or unhappiness.
Physical Symptoms: Headaches or backaches, muscle tension and stiffness, diarrhea or constipation, nausea, dizziness, insomnia, chest pain or rapid heartbeat, weight gain or loss, skin breakouts, loss of sex drive, frequent colds.
Behavioral Symptoms: Eating more or less, sleeping too much or too little, isolating yourself from others, procrastination, neglecting responsibilities, using alcohol, cigarettes, or drugs to relax, nervous habits (e.g., nail biting), teeth grinding or jaw clenching, overdoing activities (exercising, shopping, hobbies), overreacting to unexpected problems, picking fights with others.
IDENTIFYING YOUR STRESSORS
The pressures and demands that cause stress are known as stressors. One person’s stressors may not be all that bad for another. What is stressful depends on many factors, including personality, general outlook on life, problem-solving ability, and available support systems. What are the stressors in your work situation? Identifying your stressors and your signs of stress are key elements in stress management. Stress management is critical to career longevity as a pet groomer.
External Stressors – Pet groomers share some common causes of stress. Difficult pets, clients with unrealistic expectations, being overbooked, all can push a groomer to the edge. A disorganized workplace, poorly performing equipment, unreasonable employers, coworkers who don’t pull their share of the load or who themselves are acting out their stress, are factors which can create stress. Constant loud noise of high velocity dryers and barking dogs is a significant stress factor for groomers.
Internal Causes of Stress –Not all stress is caused by external pressures and demands. Your stress can also be self-generated. Internal causes of stress include: Uncertainty or worries, pessimistic attitude, self-criticism, unrealistic expectations or beliefs, perfectionism, low self-esteem, unexpressed anger, lack of assertiveness.
Effects of chronic stress – The human being is designed to withstand short bursts of acute stress. Prolonged stress or “chronic stress” that doesn’t let up can challenge even a well-adjusted person’s ability to adapt. When sustained or severe stress overwhelms our coping resources, serious mental and physical health problems can result.
Emotional effects - Chronic stress grinds away at your mental health, causing emotional damage in addition to physical ailments. Long-term stress can even rewire the brain, leaving you more vulnerable to everyday pressures and less able to cope. Over time, stress can lead to mental health problems such as: anxiety, depression, eating disorders, and substance abuse.
Health effects - Recent research suggests that anywhere from 60 to 90 percent of illness is stress-related. The physical wear and tear of stress includes damage to the cardiovascular system and immune system suppression. Stress compromises your ability to fight off disease and infection, throws your digestive system off balance, makes it difficult to conceive a baby, and can even stunt growth in children. Hypothyroidism, adrenal problems, chronic fatigue and other hormonal imbalances are common to pet groomers and are related to chronic stress. Stress can also result in high blood pressure, diabetes, heart disease and stroke. Chronic stress is not something that should be accepted as “part of the job”; it should be prevented or dealt with.
TIPS FOR STRESS MANAGEMENT - Don’t be a passive victim of your stressors. Actively planning for stress and its management makes the effects of your stressors less powerful.
· Practice Deep Breathing – Stop for a minute and take several deep, full breaths. Deep breathing can actually reduce the physical impact of stress.
· Aromatherapy works – Diffusion of essential oils is a well-established way to help with stress management. Try a Lemon, Lavender and Tea Tree blend. Lime, Vetiver and Bergamot is very calming.
· The Five Minute Vacation – When you have time, spend a few minutes imagining in detail a vacation retreat spot. Visualize the surroundings, whether it be mountain or beach, and find the sights, sounds and smells that might be there. When you notice yourself losing to your stress response, you can visit your vacation spot for five minutes and get some relief. Don’t just hide out in the bathroom, take a vacation!
· Don’t Be a Lone Soldier – Working in a vacuum without friends or support can lead to alienation and depression. Get a groomer buddy and join a support group.
· Music therapy (note: it only works if YOU like the music.)
· Take a Spiritual Bath –Did a difficult customer or a coworker give you grief? “Wash away” your stress by an imaginary cleansing of your aura, and swoosh off the negative energy into a sink basin or your tub. If this is too far out for you, just splashing the face with cool water can help. The Qi Gong exercise called, “Large Bear Swimming” is another way to get rid of bad energy and cleanse the spirit.
· Manage Your Mind – Work on your internal stressors to minimize their impact. Create positive thoughts to substitute for negative or pessimistic “tapes” that run you; practice self-praise to replace self-criticism; control perfectionism; honor yourself; practice being assertive with clients.
· Develop a personal stretching/tension release exercise program - Find stretches and energy exercises that address your particular needs and help you actively undo the tensions in your body from your work. It’s best to release this tension before you sleep – you will rest better and have better recovery.
· Attend Trade Shows & Seminars – Take home equipment, tools, techniques or ideas that will make a positive impact on the stress you experience at work. Have a plan on how you will implement change. Remember that change, even positive, can be stressful. How can you engage others around you to deal with the stress that your change might involve?
By BBird, as presented at Atlanta Pet Fair 2016
©Birdzeye Press, BBird, 2012. All copyrights apply. For permission, email author at bbirdgroomer@gmail.com
Shniff Facial Fluff ingredient review
Shniff Facial Fluff Ingredient Review
INCI Ingredients: water, glycerin, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sorbitol, sodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, fragrance, sodium chloride, phenoxyethanol, tetrasodium EDTA, dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol. mica for color. (from recent label).
Breakdown: Sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauryl sulfosuccinate are ultra mild cleansing agents. Glycerin and sorbitol are humectant moisturizers. Glycerin is Old School, Sorbital is New School. Sodium chloride is salt and works to thicken. All the rest are preservatives. Mica is a solid form of colorant that can be sprinkled over the top of the whipped product. This facial cleanser is whipped or “frothed” to make it foamy and easy to apply. Foaming is a form of dilution. It dilutes with air and makes the cleanser easy to apply, spread, and control the location.
Highlight: SORBITOL: The real hero of this popular product. Sorbitol has been around for a long time, but only in the last 5+ years has it become popular as a moisturizing ingredient. In fact, the popularity of this ingredient with formulators has surged dramatically. Technically sorbitol is a sugar alcohol which acts as a “humectant” or moisturizer that draws moisture to itself and holds it in place for a long time. This makes it good on the skin or hair as well as great inside the bottle or jar. It holds moisture to the skin or hair and holds it in place in the product as well. Also, sorbitol is sweet and it smells good. It is used in perfumery and cosmetics as a fragrance enhancer. One more thing: sorbitol is known as a “sensory modifier”. In plain English that means it is silky and soft in the user’s hands.
Summary: Shniff Facial Fluff is an effective facial cleanser that has been formulated to be stimulating to the senses of the user. The beauty industry has caught up to the pet grooming industry with this product. When you first open the jar it looks delightful. The surface of the fluffy foam looks like a flower in bloom, or soft waves of color on the beach. The mica color is sprinkled on the outer surface of the whipped cream product. The fragrances are bright and bursting with notes of spirit and depth. Also, the facial fluff comes in a fragrance-free option so you can enjoy the Shniff experience on sensitive skin.
Lavender Allergy - It's a thing
Originally posted 11/17/22 Revised 3/10/25
This is a heads-up post to alert pet groomers, pet owners, and aromatherapy folks that the essential oil of Lavender, Lavandula angustifolia, AKA, Lavendula officinalis, has been identified as an allergen and an increased risk of allergic contact dermatitis. The word from the European Union is that Lavender and several other essential oils appears on the 2023 update of the official EU List of Fragrance Allergens. (See Attachment Below).
The Current list of 25 fragrance ingredients are fragrance chemicals (components of fragrances) that must be declared on cosmetic labels in the EU when their concentration in a product exceeds:
0.001% in leave-on products.
0.01% in rinse-off products.
Note that this EU regulation applies to labeling, not to formulating or usage.
What is an allergen? Also known as a "sensitizer", an allergen is a substance that has the potential to trigger the immune system to marshal an allergic response. An allergen will not trigger reactions in all individuals and it may take many exposures for an allergic response to fully develop. In the case of essential oils, sensitizing substances are the natural chemical components that make up essential oils. Each essential oil has many chemical components in varying amounts depending on the plant source. Lavender oil has 8-12 chemical substances, depending on the type and variety of the plant.
One of the components of Lavender oil, Linalool, appeared on the original EU list. A second component, Linalyl Acetate, has subsequently been identified as causing allergic reactions and now appears on the 2023 amended list (along with many others). Linalyl Acetate and Linalool, are the two largest chemical components of Lavender essential oil, accounting for 50-80% of the common varieties. (Source: Tisserand & Young, Essential Oil Safety.)
A fundamental fact to know is that lavender allergy is most often a delayed-type hypersensitivity. This means that the reaction is not immediate and can take one or two days to show up. It is more likely to happen after increased use and exposure to the linalool and linalyl acetate of lavender. (per Healthline).
Why now? Essential oils have been around forever. Why are we just recently seeing their components identified as allergens? Good question! It has to do with the huge surge in the use of Lavender and other EOs and their components in the personal care, cosmetics, and pet care industries. It takes wide use and exposure over time in order for these fragrance components to emerge as allergens. BTW, synthetic fragrances utilize the chemical components to recreate the smell of the EO or to combine it with other components to make a complex synthetic fragrance.
What does Lavender allergy mean for pet groomers? Okay, just because this allergic reaction is possible does not mean that it is likely. Lavender allergy is relatively rare. The likelihood of it happening increases with:
Concentration - full strength in direct contact with skin raises a much greater risk than highly diluted in a spray product for the coat. Some of the most prevalent cases of Lavender allergy have been connected to use in massage therapy.
Duration of contact - Brief contact in a rinse-off shampoo is much less likely to spark a reaction than contact in a cream that is left on the skin.
Frequency of contact - Lavender allergy has been identified as an occupational hazard. The massage therapist using Lavender in a massage oil several times a day is at greater risk than a person getting a massage with lavender fragrance once in a while.
Sensitivity of the individual - individuals (dogs or humans) who have experienced allergic reactions to other things are more likely to have a reaction to fragrance chemicals. There are people and dogs who have an overactive immune system.
Conclusion: We do not need to ditch our fragrances or essential oils now that we know about fragrance allergy reactions. We need to be mindful that delayed reactions can occur and not be in denial. The fact that a pet leaves our care not showing any signs of itching, rash, hives, etc. does not guarantee that there is not a problem related to our products. And be aware that bathing staff is at the greatest risk of fragrance allergies, especially if they are using the same product repeatedly. The old notion that lavender was a completely benign and harmless “natural” alternative is simply not true. Now you know! Listed below is the complete list of essential oils contained in the draft of the soon-to-be-added fragrance allergens. (2023)
References:
https://www.healthline.com/health/lavender-allergy
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30779160/
https://members.wto.org/crnattachments/2022/TBT/EEC/22_6171_00_e.pdf
https://cosmeservice.com/news/regulation2023-1545-changes-the-allergen-list/
ATTACHMENT - ESSENTIAL OILS IDENTIFIED BY EU AS FRAGRANCE ALLERGENS:
Bay Leaf Oil (Laurus nobilis)
Bergamot Oil (Citrus aurantium bergamia)
Cinnamon Bark Oil (Cinnamomum zeylanicum Bark oil)
Cinnamon Leaf Oil (Cinnamomum cassia Leaf Oil)
Clove Leaf Oil (Eugenia caryophyllus)
Eastern Red Cedar Oil (Juniperus virginiana)
Eucalyptus Globulus Oil
Jasmine Oil (Jasminum officinale grandiflorum)
Lavender Oil (Lavandula hybrida, Lavandula intermedia, Lavandula angustifolia)
Lemon Oil (Citrus limon)
Lemongrass Oil (Cymbopogon citratus / schoenanthus/ flexuosus oils)
Neroli Oil (Citrus aurantium amara and dulcis Flower oil)
Orange Oil (Citrus aurantium amara and dulcis Peel oil)
Patchouli Oil (Pogostemonn cablin)
Peppermint Oil (Mentha Piperita)
Rose Flower Oil (Rosa Alba Flower Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil, Rosa Gallica Flower Oil, Rosa Rugosa Flower Oil.)
Rose Geranium Oil (Pelargonium graveolens)
Rose Otto Oil (Rosa Damascena)
Spearmint Oil (Mentha Spicata)
Sandalwood Oil (Santalum Album)
Ylang Ylang Oil (Cananga Odorata)
Barbara's dematting handout.
TECHNIQUES OF DEMATTING
Matting is the bane of the groomer’s life, whether professional or pet parent. Mats spoil the fun of styling, and dematting is sometimes uncomfortable or even painful for the pet. Matting occurs when knots and tangles bunch together and accumulate. A few hairs in a knot can be called a “tangle”; something the size of your finger, a golf ball or greater is a “mat”. There is often more than just one, and some coats have a tendency to “felt” or mat tightly against the skin. Groomers of rescued pets often see completely felted coats that come off in huge pieces.
Dematting skill is something that is developed with practice over time,
much like scissoring and styling. The following techniques are offered as a means of developing your skill in dematting. The more you utilize these techniques, the greater speed you will develop at achieving your result, with the least possible discomfort to the pet.
DIVIDE AND CONQUER - MAT SPLITTING
Splitting matted fur into smaller pieces is your fundamental key to success. By slicing your matted area lengthwise into smaller pieces, you have a much better chance of untangling the hair. There is also less discomfort to the animal to have small pieces of hair worked on rather than a large mass. One of the best tools for splitting mats is a plastic letter opener style that looks like a business card, with a single “tooth” and a blade in the corner.
Mat splitting requires care and paying attention. Because you need to use a very sharp tool, there is always danger of slicing something besides hair. Watch out for edges of ears, folds of skin, and the tips of tails. Scissors can be used with great caution, ALWAYS working away from the skin. Never cut into mats with scissors pointing inwards to the dog.
Another way of dividing and conquering matting is to shorten the matted coat first. Using your "rough out" shears (an older, less valuable shears) roughly scissor off some of the length. This is especially effective on poodle or poodle mix coats. Oftentimes scissored off mats will brush apart after bathing on these coats. Just try it!
PICK DON'T PULL
Most matted hair will break apart more easily if you use a picking action, rather than trying to pull a comb or rake through a hunk of hair. Correct picking technique is very similar to the technique we use to comb up hair in preparation for scissoring. You are lifting the tool in and out of the hair, not pulling through. Pick from the ends of the hair toward the skin, not from the skin out. Relax your wrist and get a sort of whipping action going. The objective of picking is to loosen the hair. Later you will get more separation with a comb.
FROTHING
The concept of frothing emerged in the moment during the demonstration of
dematting techniques at Atlanta Pet Fair, 2005. I was doing rapid picking action in a matted area on a Cocker Spaniel, using a Mat Breaker tool. As the undone fur rose to the surface, it formed sort of a foam on the top of the coat. "Look!" I exclaimed, "It's FROTHING!" Voila! A concept was born.
Frothing is helpful when you are working on a larger matted area and it is an alternative to picking each little piece apart. Lightly whip in a wider area and then brush out the froth and continue with the comb. Or more frothing...
ATTACK FROM THE SIDE
Once you have an area divided by splitting and loosened by picking, you can finish by combing through. I recommend using a coarse comb and working from one side of an area of matted hair rather than a front and center approach. If possible, hold a piece of hair in one hand and comb with the other. Holding the hair with your fingers between the part being combed and the skin will reduce discomfort to the animal. Release your hold to get the last bit of combing to the skin.
BLOW IT OUT - THE USE OF AIR
Air flow can be used as an aid in untangling hair, either from a high velocity dryer or a traditional stand/arm dryer. The action of the air serves to shake loose some of the hair that is woven together in a tangle. In the case of more coarsely textured hair, much detangling can be done with air flow and splitting of larger areas. On finer coats, the use of air flow from an arm dryer while fluff drying will speed up dematting.
BATHING - THE USE OF WATER
Many groomers were trained with the admonition to never bathe a matted coat. It was cautioned that bathing would cause the matted fur to tighten its grip. This is true if the matted fur is not combed out after the coat is dried. Cleaning and conditioning a matted coat can often help to release the grip of tangles, and some products, such as the silicones mentioned above actually work best when dried into the coat.
Avoid rubbing products into tangled hair, as rubbing can worsen the situation. Squeeze products through the coat and pat dry with towels. On a heavily matted coat, It is recommended that you do some mat splitting before the bath, thus insuring that your bathing will be thorough, products will be distributed, and hair thoroughly saturated. Big clumps can be difficult to penetrate.
TOOLS AND PRODUCTS
Find the tools and products that work best for you. For the purpose of
splitting large matted areas, look for tools that have replacement blades. These tools are only as effective as they are sharp. I use a letter opener splitter from www.groomersmall.com. Another of my favorite dematting tools for large matted areas is the Mat Breaker. It has small, curved blades.
Find out if you prefer the rake style or comb style mat tool.
Look for a wide tooth comb or coarse comb. The Chris Christensen extra coarse-fine comb is great on small dogs such as Bichon, and Shih Tzu. A larger wooden-handled poodle comb is good for larger dogs, such as the Doodles.
Some brushes can be helpful. The Mars Flexy King brush is excellent for breaking up small mats. This imported brush is becoming hard to find. It is at www.groomersmall.com. Extra firm pin brushes are helpful. We’ve used the Chris Christensen 16mm T Brush for years. The Les Pooch “Emergency” brush is extra firm and works for large matted areas.
A pair of blending shears is also helpful for dematting. Blenders have one notched tooth blade and one straight blade. They can be used to break up mats or to cut out stubborn knots with less danger of slicing the dog or leaving a huge hole in the coat.
SLIPPING N' SLIDING
Products which make the hair slippery will ease the detangling efforts.
There are plenty of different products to try. One of the most slippery
products is Cowboy Magic Detangler and Shine. Another silicone gel is
Eqyss Survivor. Remoisturizers and thick conditioners work well if used full
strength directly on the mat. One of my favorites is Chris Christensen Spectrum 10 HyproPac. Less bad mats can be teased apart with aid from diluted spray-in conditioners. Some groomers do much of their dematting in the tub on a wet
pet.
On a dry coat, grooming powders and even corn starch can lubricate the hair shaft for increased ease in tangle removing. Wear a face mask if you choose this
route, so you don’t inhale a lot of powder as you work.
Grooming products with a silicone base, such as Chris Christensen Ice on Ice, The Stuff, Quicker Slicker, AbraCaDaBra and Best Shot coat each hair shaft with slick silicones. Silicone sprays work best when dried on to the coat. It requires a leap of faith to trust that dematting will easier after the coat is bathed and dried. I have also used hair serum products from the human hair aisle that are marketed as “anti-frizz” or “hair glossing”. A good one from Sally Beauty is Fantasia Frizz Buster Serum.